NAJU, South Jeolla Province - Sitting on the southwestern tip of the Korean Peninsula is Naju, a city hugging Yeongsan River. The city in South Jeolla Province is famous for a number of things including the pristine art of natural dyeing and its cultivation of mouth-watering pears. But the most corporeal attraction comes from scrumptious local specialties, ranging from hot and spicy beef soup to notoriously smelly, yet enticing matured skate.
By taking the KTX from Yongsan Station in central Seoul, it takes just over two and a half hours to arrive at Naju Station.
Moving around the spacious city, one will find that it still possesses the good charms from the old days - farmland, livestock, the river, and the mountain - but also a pinch of modern lifestyle with PC rooms and karaoke bars downtown.
Agriculture has been the core industry of Naju, which now aims to become more tourist-friendly, according to Deputy Naju Mayor Yoon Kwang-soo.
"We are also preparing large-scale industrial complexes to attract those from biochemistry and textiles," he said.
Naju people are especially enthusiastic in preserving traditional and cultural assets.
The city is proud that, over 1,000 years ago, it had been the location for a "mok," a local administrative unit during the Goryeo and Joseon dynasties. Goryeo, through its centralized policies, established moks at major local centers and a magistrate was dispatched to each. A total of 12 moks were designated by King Seongjong of Goryeo during the second year of his rule in 983. The number was reduced to eight by King Hyeonjong in the ninth year of his rule in 1018. In the Joseon Dynasty, moks were expanded to 20 different areas.
Naju mok during the Goryeo period controlled five guns, or counties in English, and eleven hyeons, or prefectures. Later in 1018, following another administrative restructuring, Naju mok became the only mok in the South Jeolla Province.
Moks were in place until King Gojong, who in the 32nd year of his rule in 1895 reshuffled the administrative units of bu, mok, gun and hyeon into a single unit of "gun" that are used to this day.
The house of the magistrate (moksanaea) in Naju has been refurbished as an accommodation, complete with large and contemporary bathrooms. There is, however, an ongoing debate about whether to open up the venue for public use due to the risk of the house being damaged.
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Gomtang

For satisfying travels, good food is always a must. The local dishes of Naju are actually so good that one may want to return just for the sake of eating.
The dishes are not luxurious or extravagant, but rather uncouth and simple.
The most impressive is Naju gomtang (beef soup). It is made by boiling beef bones for a long time, producing a rich and savory taste. It also has a pinch of spice from black pepper, causing tears and a runny nose after gulfing down a bowl. Unlike ordinary gomtang and seolongtang, which tend to have a white color due to lengthy boiling, Naju gomtang is clear. Its secret remains, well, a secret.
Put a whole bowl of rice into the soup and stir. Have a huge spoonful with ripe radish or cabbage kimchi, and you will be an immediate gomtang fan. The dish is especially satisfying after a morning hike to watch the beautiful sunrise over the Yeongsan River in Bongsan Mountain.
One of the most famous gomtang places in Naju is Nampyeong Sikdang, located in Geumgye-dong, just five minutes from the Naju bus terminal. It is extremely small and raggedy, which usually is a sign that the place relies on nothing other than good cooking.
The restaurant has been in operation for 60 years, and only cooks with Korean beef bought from the market every day. As other parts of beef tend to break apart after a long boiling period, only greaseless shanks and fillets are used.
Interesting is the fact that Naju residents do not really eat gomtang, according to the restaurant. Considering that at least 400 gomtang bowls are sold every day to visitors, it appears Naju gomtang is indeed popular nationwide. It is 6,000 won per bowl. The restaurant can be reached at (061) 334-4682.
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Matured thornbacks

Another delicacy is something that is definitely not common, and only enjoyed by those who somehow can taste the deepness of matured thornback fish despite its wrenching smell.
Naju`s Yeongsanpo thornbacks or skates are the originals of the highly coveted and expensive dish enjoyed nationwide. Thornbacks are probably the only fish in Korea eaten after being matured, rather than fresh. This bizarre tradition derives from when thornbacks caught off Heuksando Island near Mokpo in South Jeolla Province, were naturally matured while being transported to Yeongsan of Naju.
Thornbacks, with a pinkish color, are said to be high in protein, low in calories with strong alkali.
Matured thornbacks are made by putting the washed and dried fish in a pot, and fermenting it at 5 to 10 degrees Celsius for 10 to 15 days. The most famous way of eating the matured thornback is with deeply ripened red kimchi and steamed pork. Add in a drink of makgeolli (rice wine).
A peasant food spread

Naju has several destinations designed for easy sightseeing, reflecting its effort to become a popular tourism spot. Probably the best way to cap off a day of traveling would be to eat Naju`s famous local beef barbeque.
Hwatap Village had been famous for Korean pears. But these days, with the construction of a food market, Naju`s high-quality beef are garnering much attention.
The selection of beef from local farms can be chosen from the butcher`s shelf. For an additional 5,000 won, enjoy Korean-style barbeque at an adjacent restaurant. All side dishes are made with vegetables grown in the region. More information on the village can be found at www.hwatop.co.kr
Since the old days, Gujin Stream is where seawater and freshwater meet, providing a source of hybrid eels, which travel between rivers and seas.
Eels, especially favored by stamina-seeking men, are rich in protein, Vitamin A and fat. There are about 20 eel restaurants lined along Gujin.
For a humble meal, one can visit the house of Park Kyeong-joong, an aristocrat of the Joseon Dynasty. Park`s descendents still live in the house and play an important role Naju.
In a detached house of Park`s, a traditional restaurant has been in operation for over 10 years, offering hanjeongshik, or a traditional food spread. Its tranquil ambience awakens the appetite as a table full of over 30 types of delectable peasant dishes captivates the eye. It is 20,000 won per person, a comparatively cheap price for Korea`s signature food spread. The restaurant can be reached at (061) 333-0116.

Sightseeing destinations

The most significant stop around Naju would be its cultural center for natural dyeing. It offers an explanation of how Naju became famous for its dyes, using indigo plants. The center can be reached at (061) 335-0091.
To fully delve into the holiday spirit, it is worth a visit to the "Iseul Village" located in Noan of Naju. The village was named Iseul, meaning dewdrops, which befall the village in abundance each morning, due to the usually-large swing in temperature overnight.
As 95 percent of the villagers are Catholic, almost the entire village is decorated with Christmas lights this time of the year.
Naju was the main location for the mega-hit MBC drama "Jumong" or "The Book of Three Han."
Naju has preserved the Buyeo-period sets and developed them into a large theme park. The theme park has been remodeled for a reopening mid-December. Entrance fees are 3,000 won for adults, 2,500 won for teenagers and 1,000 won for children. The park is open from 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Along with the theme park, sailboats can be hired to enjoy the Yeongsan River.
For a more luxurious sleep, Jungheung Gold Spa and Resort (www.jhgoldresort.co.kr) is located in Nampyeong.
More information on traveling Naju, call Naju City Hall at (061) 330-7892 or by visiting www.naju.go.kr
By Lee Joo-hee

(angiely@heraldcorp.com