This is the 41st in a series of articles highlighting tourism spots in Seoul. The guide for planning weekend trips in the capital city will help readers rediscover Seoul. - Ed.

By Heo Shi-myung

In June 2009, the Joseon Royal Tombs were registered as a UNESCO world heritage site. For Korea, this is the ninth addition to the world heritage list.
There are 42 Joseon Royal Tombs. Forty of those tombs are in South Korea, of which eight are in Seoul. The royal tombs are those that were built following the death of kings and queens.
State funerals in modern times are held when former presidents or others who have been admired by the people for their great achievements pass away. Most recently was on Aug. 23, when late former President Kim Dae-jung passed away. It was the second state funeral to be held since the establishment of the Republic of Korea.
During the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), however, state funerals were held when kings and queens passed away.
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While a modern state funeral takes at least nine days, it took 3-5 months during the Joseon Dynasty. Since they believed odd numbers were more prestigious, the funeral was held for an odd number of months.
There was also a ceremony called "a spirit on the roof" when a person died, which is hardly seen nowadays. When a king died, his eunuch climbed up on the roof of the palace and shouted three times while waving the king`s robe, "High majesty, please come back!" If the spirit didn`t come back, the king was considered dead and they could proceed with the funeral.
The funeral process during the Joseon Dynasty was very complicated. The department of the administration (Uijeongbu) announced the state funeral. With the guidance of the first vice-premier, three government offices were established: Binjeondogam made a mortuary, cleaned the corpse and wrapped it in a shroud; Gukjangdogam took charge of the proceedings; and Sanneungdogam built the tomb and a house for the sacrificial rites.
Seonjeongneung is located in the middle of Seoul, surrounded by high-rise buildings and apartments. At the entrance, the red-spiked gate is the first thing you see. It is the gate that marks the holy area, propped up by two red pillars on either side, each topped with spikes and engraved with Taegeuk (traditional symbol) marks. The two-tiered pathways from the red-spiked gate to the T-shaped shrine used for royal tomb rites are covered with rough stones. The higher tier was for the gods, and the lower stage for the kings - no one else was allowed to use these pathways, and a sideway was paved for ordinary people to be able to approach the tomb.
In front of Joseon Royal Tombs, there are usually two to four structures. The structure in front of the tomb is called Jeongjagak, named after its shape that resembles the Chinese character "Jung."
This is where the sacrificial rites were performed. One was to approach the structure from the east side, and leave on the west. To the east of the shrine stands a tombstone inscribed with the king`s achievements, along with another monument to protect it.
Seolleung has a similar structure. King Seongjong (1457-1494), a great kings of the Joseon Dynasty, is laid under here. He completed the early period of civilization, which led to the heyday of Joseon. He had 12 wives, and fathered 16 princes and 13 princesses. The queen who bore his first son was deposed, causing political turmoil later on. Yeonsangun, who succeeded King Seongjong, was removed from the throne after 10 years in power. King Jungjong (1488-1544) was the successor, whose tomb is called Jeongneung, situated next to Seolleung. The tomb of his mother, Queen Jeonghyeon, is between the tombs of the kings Seongjong and Jungjong. The tombs of King Seongjong and Queen Jeonghyeon are known together as Seolleung.
Seonjeongneung now plays the role of a relaxation area for people living in the maze of buildings in the city. The entrance fee is 1,000 won, and a monthly pass (10,000 won) is available so that neighbors can visit as often as they want. Lunchtime pass is also available costing 3,000 won and gets you in a total of 10 times between noon and 1 p.m.
The Joseon Royal Tombs were all built in similar style, but they differ from each other according to their geographical features. At the tomb of King Jungjong, the graves of the king and queen are in completely separate locations. Others, like Seolleung, have the two placed near each other at the foot of the mountain. Heolleung is the name for the tombs of the king and the queen that are next to each other like twin tombs on a hill. Illeung is a combined tomb where the king and the queen lay together under one structure. Gyeongneung, the tomb of the 24th king, Heonjong, has the king, queen, and the king`s second wife placed together.
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In Naegok-dong, Seoul, from the southern side of Seonjeongneung, there are Heonneung of King Taejong (the third king of Joseon) and Illeung of King Sunjo, the 23rd king.
Together, they are called Heonilleung. The area is also considered a historic place for its forest of alder trees.
King Taejong was the 5th son of King Taejo, the founder of Joseon. He was the partner to his father in building the country after defeating opponents. However, to gain the throne, he killed his stepbrothers and even executed his brothers-in-law to restrain the power of his wife`s family.
A typical royal tomb is covered with grass with 12 stones around it like a folding screen to protect it. The stone fence around the tomb prohibits the approach by animals or people. Around the tomb are four sculptures of sheep and four tigers, whose features are more cute than scary. Beyond the sheep and tigers is a fence. In front of the tomb is a wide rock, which is put there so that spirits can come and rest. A gargoyle is carved on the supporting stone to drive away evil spirits. There is also a stone lantern. This is not for light, but to pray that the royal tomb will be maintained and protected for a long time and to receive blessings from the tomb.
A scholar statue (Muninseok) and a warrior statue (Muinseok) also stand guarding the tomb. The Muninseok`s features are soft and comfortable, while the Muinseok`s features are intimidating and dignified. They are each accompanied by stone horses. Usually tombs have one pair of Muninseok and one pair of Muinseok, with two pairs of stone sheep and stone tigers, but Heolleung has four of each statue.
It was difficult to approach the tomb area during the Joseon Dynasty. Nowadays cities are developed and buildings and residential areas stand closely to the entrances to the tombs.
Recently more buildings have been erected along the hills around Heolleung, something that was unthinkable in the past.
The main reason why the Joseon Royal Tombs were added to UNESCO world heritage site was that the structures surrounding the tombs, the spot where the tombs are placed have been maintained well, with good preservation of the way to take good care of the tombs.
They reveal the Joseon Dynasty`s unique perspective on the world, religion, and nature, with a naturalistic interment culture that differs from the Confucian styles of their neighbors. Another reason is that they are creative spaces that contain the ideas and artistic views of time as they were continually built over a period exceeding 500 years. The third reason is that they are spaces where the tradition of ancestral worship is inherited, with regular national sacrificial rituals.
The Joseon royal tombs are not just traditional spaces. They have become parks where ecology and the natural environment are well preserved. The paths of woods around the tombs are like gifts from the Joseon Dynasty.

Directions to Seonjeongneung

Take exit number 8, Seolleung Station subway line 2. The tomb is 10 minutes away on foot. Bus No. 472, 6411, 3420, 3219 also go to the tombs. Bongeunsa temple, COEX, and Dosan Park are nearby.

Admission hours:
6 a.m. to 9 p.m. (March October), 6:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. (November February)
Admission fee:
Entrance is 1,000 won. A monthly pass is 10,000 won. Lunchtime (12 p.m. to 1 p.m.) passes are 3,000 won for 10 visits. The tomb is closed every Monday.
Other info.: Parking is 400 won for 10 minutes.
Seolleung Management Office 02 568 1291

Directions to Heonilleung

Take exit number 6 at Gangnam Station, subway line 2, or exit number 7 at Yangjae Station of subway line 3. Transfer to bus - No. 140, 407, 462, 471, 9411 or 4422 - and then get off at the Heonilleung stop.
By car, come out of Naegok interchange from the highway between Bundang and Naegok, and head toward the Heonilleung entrance.

Admission hours:
6 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. (March October), 6:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. (November February)
Tickets can be purchased up to one hour before admission.
Admission fee:
Entrance fee is 1,000 won.
Other info.: Parking is free of charge.
Heolleung Management Office 02 445 0347