The Korea Herald

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Insa-dong and Samcheong-dong

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Published : April 4, 2010 - 01:15

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This is the fifth in a series of articles highlighting tourism spots in Seoul. The useful guide for planning weekend trips in the capital city will help readers rediscover Seoul. - Ed.


Seoul boasts locations that are great for a walk, where one can be deep in thought while the scenery unfolds. Insa-dong and Samcheong-dong streets are great examples, as they are imbued with both tradition and modern life.

Insa-dong, where tradition lives on


Home to Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung, royal palaces from the Joseon Dynasty and the Jongmyo royal shrine, Jongno has served as the political, economical, social and cultural center of Korea since the Joseon period. Insa-dong, abundant with unique relics, was the site where the Dohwaseo, the Royal Bureau of Painting, was situated. As the Dohwaseo was the government office in charge of providing paintings for the royal palaces and recording major national and royal events in art, Insa-dong has preserved Korean painting traditions ever since, which makes it an ideal place to meet traditional culture and arts.

Stores that sell tradition


Embroidery, or "suye," is a traditional Korean handcraft. It is the art of decorating a fine-colored piece of silk with patterns of careful stitching. At the International Embroidery Institute in Insa-dong, one can find hand-stitched pieces of embroidery in elaborate designs and awe-inspiring craftsmanship. One of the popular items these days is an embroidered wine bag, which is ideal as a gift with a bottle of traditional Korean wine. A case embroidered with the traditional Korean pattern "sipjangsaeng" - ten plants and animals symbolizing longevity - is an attractive alternative. This round case is a work of art - it is not only practical but beautiful and elegant. For more information, call 02-732-0830.
Myeongsindang pilbang is another must-visit store. It is a stationary shop that also engraves stamps, which are used in Asia in the same way that signatures are used in Western countries. A personal stamp makes a great souvenir. For more information, call 02-722-4846.
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Art that figures


Insa-dong has a wealth of small and large galleries. Mokin Gallery is crowded with "hand-carved wooden figurines," as the name "mokin" (literally meaning wood man) suggests. It boasts a collection of some 3,500 traditional wooden figurines. Mokin refers to decorative wooden sculptures that were attached to hearses. It reflects the Korean sentiment toward death, one of four human agonies in Buddhism: birth, aging, suffering and death. For more information, call 02-722-5066 or visit www.mokinmuseum.com

Honey, herbs and healthy porridge


The restaurant Dimibang specializes in dishes prepared with medicinal herbs as major ingredients, reflecting the expertise of the restaurant owner Choi Jin-gyu, a former medicinal herb digger. Its menu includes dishes with unusual names such as heotgae porridge made with Japanese raisin tree, mistletoe-flavored rice mixed with honey, lotus seed porridge and poria plant fungus soup with wheat flakes. There are also various set menus such as the Dimibang meal, vegetable meal, salicornia herbacea meal and royal court meal served with hasuo porridge as an appetizer. Hasuo porridge is made with hasuo, a root said to help restore hair color, and brown sweet rice that makes it soft and tasty. All dishes served at the restaurant are colorful and healthy. The salicornia herbacea meal is 13,000 won and set menus start at 30,000 won. The restaurant is open from 12 p.m. to 10 p.m. For more information, call 02-720-2417.
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Sounding the times


The bell pavilion called Bosingak is on the corner of the street that leads to Insa-dong. It used to perform important functions in the Joseon period, signaling the opening and closing of the city gates and announcing the time. Visitors can see the bell-ringing ceremony at noon every day except Monday. The bell ringer shows up at 11:30 a.m. and rings the bell 12 times at noon after introducing visitors to Bosingak. This is the only time visitors can enter the pavilion.

Streets of fusion in Samcheong-dong


Samcheong-dong also belongs to Jongno-gu in Seoul. The name "Samcheong-dong" literally means a place where the mountains, water and the minds of people are clean. However, the name is also said to have come from three dwelling places of Taoist hermits. Regardless of the origin of its name, Samcheong-dong is well known for its quiet streets, clear air and peaceful environment, despite the fact that it is only 10-minutes` walk away from Gwanghwamun in downtown Seoul.

Bags of style


Samcheong-dong streets are lined with charming stores with unique interior decoration and cute signs that catch the eye. Among them, the shops near the Tibet museum and the World Jewelry Museum in the direction of Gwagae Street stand out. Stori sells bags in a variety of designs that meld tradition with modernity. The handcrafted bags made of fine-grain leather are created by bag designer Cho Myeong-Hee, who operates 40 shops in 14 countries, including outlets in Milan and Paris, having launched the first Stori shop in London. Stori bags are characterized by traditional Korean materials, such as mother of pearl in harmony with Western materials such as soft leather and printed canvas. For more information, call 02-735-7101 or visit http://www.storisac.com

Gallery with a garden


Samcheong-dong is home to many small and large museums and galleries. The Space Movin Gallery, with its small garden and striking wall paintings, is one that passers-by cannot resist. The gallery showcases a variety of artwork and holds events including the "Small Works by 14 Leading Modern Artists" exhibition. It also features Kim Yong-mun`s "finger painting" exhibit from Dec. 22, 2008 until Jan. 13, 2009. Finger painting refers to the technique of drawing or painting on pottery in a few seconds before the glaze dries after the firing process. Finger paintings are interesting works of art that allow the artist to put all his or her artistic soul into them in the twinkling of an eye. For more information, call 02-723-7075.

Italian flavor


One Korean-style house you will not miss while strolling on Samcheong-dong Street is the Italian restaurant "Moon 1887" with its 100-year-old roof and walls visible through floor-to-ceiling windows. The most popular dish among the 20 menu items served at the restaurant is seafood risotto seasoned with clam and seafood broth instead of salt. Olive oil and fresh cream mixed with various seafood including squid, cram, shrimp, and small octopus and decorated with flyingfish eggs make it delicious and hearty. A glass of house wine makes the meal nothing less than perfect. Seafood risotto is priced at 17,000 won, wine 35,000~80,000 won, and a glass of house wine 7,000 won. For more information, call 02-722-5930.

Peaceful patch


Take a walk along Samcheong-dong Street and you will be greeted by Samcheong Park at the end of the street. The beautiful scenery with the babbling brook makes it a perfect place for quiet relaxation.

By Annabelle Lee/Travel writer