This is the third in a series on how to get by as a vegan or vegetarian in rural Korea. ― Ed.


So you’ve suffered the tribulations of Korean restaurants, but you’re longing for something new. In most areas, you will either have to travel or cook for yourself.

If you’re doing the latter, the cheapest place for produce is the street market. It’s generally about half the price of “marts” and cheaper than chain stores.

The main disadvantage is that you have no idea where the food came from. Some is grown by the person selling it, some is simply bought in bulk and repackaged. If you are worried about organic produce, you need to find a “yuginong,” or organic, supermarket, and pay for your reassurances.

You’ll need to have some degree of seasonal awareness when shopping. You can get anything year round, if you are willing to pay enough, but it’s easier on your time, money and carbon emissions if you stay seasonal.

This can add some variety. Typically by the time eggplant goes out of season I’ve overdone it, but am happy to see it again a few months later.

“Ttalgi,” or strawberries, are cheapest in spring, when oranges are also plentiful. The smaller tangerines (gamgyul) from Jeju peak in winter and are some of the cheapest fruit you can get in Korea.

As almost none of them are organic, and most are imported, bananas have no real season. To me, they also have no real flavor and it’s worth buying organic if you’re snacking. If you’re baking or making smoothies, the cheaper option will suffice.

“Mu,” or radish, is most flavorful in winter, but if you’re not a fan of that spiciness then it may be better to buy it out of season. “Baechu,” or cabbage, never seems to go away, so I recommend using it as a back-up plan.

For veg I’d rather use, “sigeumchi,” or spinach, is a staple, and “danggun,” or carrots, are almost always available. In spring, “oi” or cucumber, and “gaji,” or eggplant, come out. Asian eggplant is tremendously versatile and should be a staple in your kitchen. Salads, pasta sauces, stir-frys, toasted chips ― the applications are endless.

We can’t forget peppers. Whether you like very hot or just a subtle kick, you are at home. The exception is sweet peppers, which are almost always ridiculously expensive.

Korea is where I learned to love mushrooms. If you’re not a mushroom fan just keep searching, Korea has something you will like.

Also, get your staple spices at the market. Ginger (saengang), garlic (maneul), and green onion (pa) are always available. The quantity will be obscene, but you can mince it all at once in a blender and throw it in the freezer for later use. If you find a seller with a grinder you can get your purchase minced for you ― “dajeo juseyo” are the magic words.

Sadly, there are some things missing from the markets. Herbs are best grown in your garden or will require trips to a town sizeable enough to have a major supermarket. Some spices require a trip to one of the foreign food stores in Itaewon, but unless you’re opening a restaurant, a box of turmeric should last you quite a while. 

By Darren Bean!

Darren Bean! is a former prosecutor and lecturer in the department of Criminology at Chosun University. He can be reached at themagicbean@hotmail.com. The exclamation mark is part of his legal name. ― Ed.