Articles by Jean Oh
Jean Oh
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Fostering coffee at Conflict Store
In many ways, the word “conflict” is at odds with the actual concept of barista Park Jin-hoon’s new spot. “I do not want competition between roasters, I want to promote communication,” said Conflict Store owner Park, 33, who wants his cafe to be a level field by spotlighting multiple roasters instead of one in his space. Conflict Store owner-barista Park Jin-hoon alternates between grinding machines and the hand grinder pictured here. (Photo credit: Park Hyun-koo/The Korea Herald)In essence, th
Food Feb. 23, 2018
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Rethinking dessert at Plan Plan
From its small perch in Seoul’s Samseong-dong, Plan Plan is doing creative, structured, delicious things with cake. This tiny 14-seat dessert shop has been spinning out mouthwatering sweets since 2015, infusing mousse cakes and other treats with its own aesthetic. The aim is to create toothsome cakes that will even appeal to those who are not fond of sweets, “cakes that one can eat every day,” said Plan Plan co-owner and pastry chef Moon Sun-young, 39.Both Moon and co-owner and pastry chef Kim E
Food Feb. 9, 2018
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Deconstructing sushi at Shimizu
At Sushi Shimizu, a single piece of sushi, that first oblong oval of glistening fish over rice, serves as a reminder of the importance of “shari.” Shimizu’s shari -- also known as sushi rice -- is quite warm, slightly saline with the structure of each grain of rice remaining distinct. For co-owner and sushi chef Lee Kwang-yeol, this is no accident. “I want the salt to be noticeable in the shari,” said Lee, 34. “Strongly-seasoned shari works well with oily fish like blue-skinned fish or tuna.” S
Food Jan. 26, 2018
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All-day eats, baked goods and coffee at Caravan
Caravan, an expanding eatery with new roots near Seoul’s Dosan Park, seems to have mastered the art of all-day dining. At its latest outpost, which opened mid-December in Sinsa-dong, diners can tuck into breakfast, lunch, dinner, dessert and bar snacks in an airy space with high ceilings, floor-length windows and powder blue and buttery orange-brown seating. Caravan’s crispy pork belly is marinated in beer and honey, braised, garnished with pineapple sage, perched over sauteed potatoes and serv
Food Jan. 5, 2018
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Seamless, delicate, fragrant sushi at Kiyose
Sushi Kiyose, one of the newest sushiya to open in Seoul, is much like its name -- a serene space where one can slowly savor the soft, delicate wash of flavor from each piece of sushi with small dishes that also merit the same degree of near-meditative consideration. “I wanted a pristine space where one could come and quietly enjoy sushi, hence the name ‘kiyose,’ which means ‘clear ford,’” explained head chef Lee Sung-jun, 34. Hinoki wood, the same fragrant wood used in temples, palaces and onse
Food Dec. 15, 2017
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From eclairs to tarts at patisserie by Garuharu
Yun Eun-young, pastry chef of the now-defunct Eclair by Garuharu, amassed a following with her sumptuous repertoire of eclairs and macarons for over three years before moving onto her next act. Now, at her new perch in Yeoksam-dong, the prominent pastry chef, who studied at the Paris-based Ecole Lenotre, is proving her prowess in other things sweet. “This location opened this February,” chef Lee Hwa-jin, 26, said of Patisserie by Garuharu, a small eight-seat spot that represents Yun’s latest e
Food Nov. 24, 2017
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Palate-zinging Japanese tapas at Romantei
Ikazaya, essentially Japanese tapas bars, are a longstanding fixture of Seoul’s dining scene, a popular option for those who want a second round of nibbles and tipples on a jovial evening out. While many successful izakaya have built up a reputation on more traditional eats like yakitori and platters of beautifully arranged sashimi moriawase, Romantei is rapidly building a buzz with its unconventional compilation of palate-zinging bites. “We use an eclectic range of ingredients,” said co-owner H
Food Nov. 10, 2017
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Raffine presents take on Parisian neo-bistro
Texture, flavor and presentation are all accounted for at Raffine, a French establishment that showcases cerebral cuisine from its 18-seat perch in Sinsa-dong, Seoul. “We want the food to be fresh but not flamboyant,” said head chef Lee Dae-ryuk, 31, explaining how the goal is to give diners something new but not something over-the-top. This attitude is in line with Paris’ neo-bistro trend, where chefs are stepping away from tradition to present their own personal takes on cuisine, often in s
Food Oct. 28, 2017
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Italian tapas at Cucciolo Terrazza
After Cucciolo Terrazza, the newest eatery dreamed up by Cucciolo Group’s owner-chef Ji-woon Julian Kim, opened this September in Cheongdam-dong, Seoul, it quickly became the hip place to be. Fans of Kim’s Italian establishments -- Cucciolo Osteria, Maremma Trattoria, Volpino Ristorante and Volpino Ristorante Busan -- seemed eager to check out his latest offering. The new wine bar-style hangout lives up to expectations with a lineup of plates -- both big and small -- that are classic Cucciolo --
Food Oct. 14, 2017
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It’s all in the dough at Darobe
The pizza crust at Darobe, which opened near Seoul Forest this August, is a mouthwatering exercise in texture and flavor. When the 40-hour fermented dough at this new pizzeria meets the blistering heat of a wood-fired oven it takes on its own delicious personality. The edges taste smoky, nutty and sweet, all crackly crisp on the outside and chewy and airy on the inside. Towards the center, the crust grows more elastic and soft and takes on a richer, more robust flavor reminiscent of roasted waln
Food Sept. 15, 2017
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Hip coffee brand expands in Seoul
Dorrell is a relative newbie to the coffee scene, almost six months old, but this Jeju Island-native is taking root fast. After opening its first 78-seat cafe on Jeju Island this March, the brand launched a second outlet near Seoul’s Garosugil in late May. Then, on Aug. 31, Dorrell opened a lab concept location in Cheongdam-dong. Within less than half a year, this fledgling cafe has unveiled three brick-and-mortar shops. Its latest is a beautiful, coffee geek-worthy spot in a renovated house.
Food Sept. 1, 2017
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Local bar wins Wine Spectator award
Vin.ga receives second highest honor from prominent American wine magazineSeoul-based wine bar “vin.ga” made history this month, becoming the sole Korean establishment to win the Best of Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator’s Restaurant Wine List Awards. The famous American wine magazine handed out the second-tier honor (the Grand Award is the highest) to only 833 restaurants this year. Last ye
Food July 29, 2011
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Bargain performances big on Sejong Belt
Theater buffs can benefit from major discounts for musicals and playsEveryone loves a good deal Sejong Belt ―a gathering of 47 theaters, museums and cultural organizations around Gwanghwamun Square ― provides just that; a great bargain, well, actually, 32 of them to be exact.Combo packages offering up to 60 percent off events are, without a doubt, the main attraction of this cultural hub spearhead
Performance July 22, 2011
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Burger Bonanza
Golden Burger Republic spins out 11 varieties of meat-in-a-bun alongside an equally delectable array of hot dogs, fries and desserts. (Park Hae-mook/The Korea Herald)Artisan patties invade ApgujeongThe popularity of burgers is far from waning. Though Seoul is packed with burger joints, new ones keep springing up, proving that this is more than just a craze. Let’s face it. Meat-in-a-bun is here to
Food July 8, 2011
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Eric comes back with TV rom-com
Whatever happened to singer-turned-actor Eric (a.k.a. Mun Chong-hyuk)? After the boy band rapper wrapped up a lackluster TV drama in 2008, he dutifully split the celebrity scene to join the military. Last October, he became a free man, ready to jump back into the fray, but his next move was a long time coming. First he signed on for a titanic ocean blockbuster aptly-titled “Poseidon.” Delays in pr
Television July 5, 2011
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