Chef Louis Han’s Michelin-starred restaurant blends modern techniques with the soulful essence of Korean flavors, creating multisensory dining experience
SINGAPORE -- Tucked along a vibrant street lined with restaurants and bars in the heart of Singapore, NAE:UM quietly asserts itself as a symbol of Korean culinary evolution. Since its 2021 debut, the fine-dining restaurant has won accolades including a Michelin Star and the Michelin Guide Singapore’s 2022 Young Chef Award for its chef, Louis Han.
Named after the Korean word for a “fragrance that evokes memories,” NAE:UM reflects Han’s vision -- to craft dishes that stir the past while embracing modern techniques. In a city renowned for its culinary diversity, the Korean chef has carved a niche with his “contemporary Seoul cuisine,” blending Western culinary styles with Korean heritage flavors.
NAE:UM occupies a two-story space with an unassuming yet elegant exterior -- a pale lemon-yellow facade with a light wood door that invites guests into its warm, dimly lit interior. Inside, the design is minimalist yet comforting, setting the tone for an intimate dining experience. The staff greets guests by confirming reservations and guiding them to their seats, whether at the dining tables or the bar seating thoughtfully prepared for solo diners.
The restaurant isn’t large, but what it lacks in size it makes up for in atmosphere. With an open kitchen at its corner, guests can observe the calm precision of Han and his team of Korean and local staff, quietly crafting each course with meticulous care. The chef occasionally steps out to introduce the dishes himself, adding a personal layer to the experience.
Episode 9: A culinary story in nine acts
Currently titled “Episode 9,” the tasting menu reflects Han’s storytelling approach to food. Offered in two formats -- the Signature Course at SGD 268 ($204) and the Classic Course at SGD 228 -- each nine-course journey includes the option of creative alcoholic or nonalcoholic pairings, including Korean traditional liquors -- a hit among international diners.
The journey begins with a trio of amuse-bouches: a jorim tart topped with sea urchin; a buchimgae kimchi tartlet with crispy edges; and ganghwae, a refreshing bite of scallop, herbs and cucumber jelly.
The next course, deokgalbi, reimagines the beloved Korean beef patty. Here, it's paired with a crispy rice puff and pickled cucumber, adding brightness and crunch. Tomato dongchimi is both nostalgic and new, combining marinated tomato, spring salad, horse mackerel sashimi and caviar in a broth that nods to traditional water kimchi but is elevated with a slick of chili oil and a foundation of cucumber jelly.
Memilmyeon, or buckwheat noodles inspired by Han’s childhood, arrives adorned with abalone, flying fish roe and white kimchi sliced into the shape of a flower. The dish bridges past and present -- a tribute to the simple noodle meals his parents prepared on weekends, now transformed into a flavor-rich homage.
Next is chogye, a reinterpreted cold chicken soup, featuring zucchini blossoms stuffed with chicken and a pea-based broth poured tableside refreshingly acidic.
As the warm dishes begin, the complexity of Han’s technique deepens. Perhaps the standout dish of the evening is Diamond, made with diamond fish, named not just for its rarity but its value. The fish, similar in texture to cod or salmon, is served with a creamy doenjang (fermented soybean) sauce, thinly sliced radish and doenjang-marinated vegetables.
The so galbi includes smoky beef short rib, a tofu soy reduction and grilled perilla-stuffed onion, served with your choice of artisanal knife made from olive wood, buffalo horn or deer antler. A side of kale salad adds contrast, though its texture may not appeal to everyone.
The penultimate savory course, gulbi, is a labor of love. Han personally dries and salts the yellow corvina, a rarity in Singapore. It’s served over stone pot rice with sesame oil and three Korean side dishes: white kimchi, wood ear mushrooms and dubujang (tofu sauce). Guests may choose their rice portion -- another thoughtful touch in an already meticulous experience.
Sweet endings, rooted in tradition
Dessert begins with ddalgi, a strawberry yogurt sorbet with white asparagus mousse -- a delicate balance of sweet and savory. Then comes a juak, a Korean rice doughnut served warm over truffle cream and finished with Martell XO cognac. Rich and aromatic, it feels like a finale in itself.
The meal concludes with a quartet of traditional sweets: jeongpyeon (fermented rice cake), gangjeong (crispy puffs), omija jelly and sujeonggwa (spiced punch). The latter, aged for a month and rich with cinnamon, aids digestion while offering a final floral note.
NAE:UM offers a meal composed of narrative told through taste, memory and culture. Chef Louis Han masterfully fuses Korean tradition with modern elegance, creating a dining experience that’s both intimate and expressive.
Reservations are highly recommended. Allow at least two hours for the full course experience.
As Korean cuisine gains global recognition on the back of international hit dramas and shows, a new wave of chefs is bringing refined, modern interpretations of traditional flavors of Korea to cities around the world. This is part of a series that introduces Korean fine dining outside of South Korea. --Ed.
yoohong@heraldcorp.com
