Neighborhood staple since 1980

Busan Agu in Sinsa-dong, Seoul (Hong Yoo/ The Korea Herald)
Busan Agu in Sinsa-dong, Seoul (Hong Yoo/ The Korea Herald)

Nestled in the trendy, bustling neighborhood of Sinsa-dong in Seoul, Busan Agu has been a staple of seafood lovers for more than 45 years. Known for its signature dish, agwi jjim,or braised monkfish with bean sprouts and slathered in spicy seasoning, the restaurant has garnered a loyal following despite the neighborhood's transformation into a hub of modern and often experimental dining.

Busan Agu stands out for its ordinary interior, which contrasts sharply with the sleek, contemporary designs of nearby eateries. The restaurant's nostalgic, traditional market-style decor has remained unchanged over the decades, offering a warm, inviting atmosphere for both regulars and newcomers. While the area’s younger crowds flock to trendy spots, Busan Agu’s reputation for delivering comforting, hearty Korean seafood dishes has ensured its place as a local favorite.

Monkfish, known as agwi in Korean, is in peak season during the cold winter months, and it has long been a cherished ingredient in Korean cuisine. Historically, fishers would discard the fish due to its less-than-appetizing appearance, but its mild, delicate flavor has earned it a beloved status in dishes like agwi jjim.

At Busan Agu, the menu is packed with seafood delicacies such as kkotge jjim (steamed crab), kkotge tang (crab soup), nakji jjim (steamed octopus), ganjanggejang (soy sauce marinated raw crab), hongeo jjim (steamed skate) and, of course, agwi jjim.

Busan Agu's agwi jjim (Hong Yoo/ The Korea Herald)
Busan Agu's agwi jjim (Hong Yoo/ The Korea Herald)

The agwi jjim is available in several sizes to accommodate the different number of people sharing the dish. The small size, priced at 40,000 won ($27.85), is served exclusively at lunchtime, while the extra-large one, priced at 75,000 won, is perfect for groups of four or more. The dish comes in a thick layer of red sauce, which can seem spicy at first glance, but is actually subtle, allowing the natural flavors of the fish to shine. For diners who prefer spicy food, the restaurant is happy to adjust the spiciness level.

Busan Agu omits ingredients like iri (fish eggs) and goni (fish roe) in the dish, focusing on the tender, succulent anglerfish paired with fresh bean sprouts. The fish is in season right now, its flesh plump and chewy, offering a satisfying bite. Monkfish is also rich in vitamin E and selenium, both known for their antioxidant properties that support youthful skin and overall health.

Before the main course is served, diners are treated to a comforting broth made from boiled crab and soybean paste, resulting in a rich, deep flavor. The warm broth is a perfect way to start the meal, especially on chilly winter days.

Busan Agu's ge-al bap (Hong Yoo/ The Korea Herald)
Busan Agu's ge-al bap (Hong Yoo/ The Korea Herald)

The true highlight of Busan Agu, however, may be its ge-al bap (crab roe rice). While many restaurants offer fried rice made with leftover agwi jjim sauce, Busan Agu offers ge-al bap, which is rice topped with crab roe from ganjanggejang (soy sauce marinated raw crab), accompanied by gim (dried seaweed) and a drizzle of sesame oil. The result is a creamy, savory side dish that perfectly complements agwi jjim and is an experience in itself.

Though its interior is modest, Busan Agu has proven surprisingly popular among younger diners. On weekends, the restaurant is often filled with a lively crowd, and long lines are common, especially during dinner hours. Those hoping to avoid a wait should aim to arrive before 5 p.m. The restaurant’s staff is known for their exceptional hospitality, continually checking to ensure that diners’ side dishes are refilled.

Busan Agu is open daily from 10 a.m. to 2 a.m., with a break between 3 p.m. and 4 p.m. On Sundays, the restaurant closes at 11 p.m.

For those visiting Sinsa-dong, a stop at Busan Agu promises not only a taste of Korean flavors but also an opportunity to experience a piece of Seoul’s culinary history that has endured for nearly half a century.