The Korea Herald

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Portuguese doughnuts at Hawaiian cafe

By Korea Herald

Published : Sept. 14, 2012 - 20:22

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Patrons can get a fresh-out-of-the-fryer dozen to go at the Good Days Malasada take-out window. (Chung Hee-cho/The Korea Herald) Patrons can get a fresh-out-of-the-fryer dozen to go at the Good Days Malasada take-out window. (Chung Hee-cho/The Korea Herald)
Malasadas fried-to-order at latest Aloha Table shop


There is something so universally comforting and soul-satisfying about doughnuts that it should come as no surprise that America is far from alone in upholding a longstanding tradition of making utterly scrumptious treats out of fried dough.

Doughnuts, in their various permutations, are a part of most food cultures, and the Portuguese malasada is Hawaii’s doughnut of choice.

Brought in by immigrants from Portugal in the 19th century, the hole-less, yeasty fried ball of dough coated in sugar caught on so well that there is even a special day for eating them: Malasada Day.

At Aloha Table’s new Cheongdam-dong store ― which specializes in Hawaiian cuisine ― three variations of malasada are served up piping hot.

Though this is Aloha Table’s second Korean outlet (the first one is in Hongdae), it is the first to serve the Portuguese delight.

“This is our first cafe,” said Kim Hye-jin, marketing team director for the Korean branches of Aloha Table. “The Hongdae store is a restaurant.”

To complete the coffee-and-grub experience, a shop-in-shop of Aloha Table’s Good Days Malasada chain was set up with a quaint take-out window to boot, for patrons eager to pick up a fresh-out-of-the-fryer dozen.

While the doughnut and its cousins are tied down by the common fried dough component, these treats vary greatly in terms of density, texture and flavor. 
Aloha Table’s shop-in-shop Good Days Malasada serves up three variations of the Portuguese treat — plain sugar, strawberry sugar and cinnamon sugar. Doughnuts and coffee are a classic combination and at Aloha Table, the brew is Kona. (Chung Hee-cho/The Korea Herald) Aloha Table’s shop-in-shop Good Days Malasada serves up three variations of the Portuguese treat — plain sugar, strawberry sugar and cinnamon sugar. Doughnuts and coffee are a classic combination and at Aloha Table, the brew is Kona. (Chung Hee-cho/The Korea Herald)

The plain sugar malasada ― as interpreted by Good Days Malasada ― is puffy, airy and coated generously in granulated sugar.

The key to the lovely, marshmallow-like texture of the malasada lies in the fermentation process, according to Kim, who added that it was a tricky technique to master.

For a bit of autumnal kick, the cinnamon sugar version is just as delicious, and really, there is nothing like a hot, sweet doughnut, especially when accompanied by a cup of coffee (Aloha Table’s is Kona).

Kim explained that there was a bit of wait before the sweets emerge, warm and cloud-like, because their doughnuts were made to order.

In addition to malasadas, Aloha Table also serves various Hawaiian dishes, including both sweet and savory pancakes.

Pancakes are not exclusive to Hawaii, of course, but the cluster of islands is famed for its take on the breakfast dish.

Aloha Table’s mango mango version is a double stack smothered in a rich custard, decorated with chopped macadamia nuts, topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and ringed with mangoes; utterly decadent and fit for dessert.

The cafe’s menu encompasses everything from cocktails to rice bowls to sweets. When it came to deciding which dishes to serve at Aloha Table from the vast lexicon of Hawaiian cuisine, Kim said, “We selected dishes we believed would appeal to Korean palates.”

Aloha Table’s flagship store is located in Hawaii and there are around 20 stores throughout Japan. After the first Korean store set up shop in Hongdae area last April, the second outlet opened in Cheongdam-dong about a month ago. 

Aloha Table Cheongdam Store:

135-819, 1F Annexe A, SB Tower, 318, Dosan-daero, Gangnam-gu, Seoul; (02) 546-7718; www.alohatable.co.kr; open from 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. Mondays through Fridays, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays; malasadas (plain sugar, cinnamon sugar, strawberry sugar) cost 1,500 won each

By Jean Oh (oh_jean@heraldcorp.com)