NEW YORK (AP) ― Forget the pear-vs.-apple and curvy-vs.-curveless shape charts for a minute. There’s another divide in the two-piece swimwear discussion: What if you actually have to get up and move around instead of lying on the chaise with a cool drink in hand?
The runway swimsuits and magazine-shoot bikinis, with their thin straps, triangle bottoms, decorative hardware and high ratio of white fabrics, make for great photos ― especially on the glamazon models.
Nanette Lepore’s Provence Rose swimsuit. (AP-Yonhap News)
But some other women, perhaps those who trudge across the sand carrying a beach chair or who use swimming as a form of fitness, like two-piece suits, too.
Designer Nanette Lepore, a bikini wearer and lap swimmer, says she personally tests all the swimsuit styles in her collection. “I’m aiming for across- the-board fit. That means higher bottoms and built-up tops. My friends ask, ‘How did most bottoms get so skimpy, anyway?’”
But just because you don’t want a string bikini doesn’t limit you to dowdy, Lepore says. “I think cute, retro styling keeps them sexy.”
No one is calling a Katy Perry-type or even a Dita Von Teese lookalike, with pinup looks that evoke old Hollywood swimsuit glamour in a flirty, high-waist skirt bottom, of being frumpy or boring, says Amy Tara Koch, a Chicago-based style expert.
It’s a win-win, she says, because it’s a feminine look with little chance of a wardrobe malfunction.
“To me, Swimwear 101 is about the four Cs: compression, cover-ups, construction and quality ― OK, that’s a Q but it makes the C sound,” says Koch.
She adds, “You need to think about how it looks and performance. ... There definitely is a middle of the road.”
Modern swimsuit manufacturers have innovative fabrics at their disposal that offer softness, control and color that lasts even after many cycles in the sun, sand and pool, according to Koch. She also notes that many of the lingerie brands that specialize in shapewear, such as Spanx, now make swimsuits.
Koch, Lepore and Kay-Lin Richardson, director of sales at Panache Swimwear, all emphasize fit over any other factor in choosing a swimsuit, especially a two-piece. It’s important in a one-piece, too, but there’s usually more leeway, they say.
(They all also say white is a risky color choice for anyone who gets wet ― no matter the fabric or lining.)
How many women do you know who are different sizes on the bottom and top? asks Richardson. Probably most of them.
Panache makes its bathing suits based on bra sizes. “The idea is a properly fitted top ― more of a custom fit,” Richardson explains. “If you’re chasing after kids, you don’t have to feel self-conscious about a possible spill.”
When you’re trying a swimsuit on in the dressing room, be sure to move around, she suggests. And for any mother picking up kids or who carries a lot of gear, Koch, author of the maternity style guide “Bump It Up,” recommends closures that tie, not hook. A one-strap halter is probably the most secure, she says.
An underwire top is going to give the support of a bra, where a triangle top won’t, says Richardson. Thick tank straps are another possibility.
For the truly active woman ― think beach volleyball player or a boater ― then the tankini should be seriously considered, Richardson says.
On the bottom, Koch says that higher-cut leg openings will create the illusion of longer legs, but boy shorts cut off most people in an unflattering way.
One of the most effective styling tricks is to draw attention up toward your face, says Koch, who recommends color or embellishment at the neckline. Be aware of metal hardware, though, which can get very hot in the sun.
Adam Glassman, creative director of O, The Oprah Magazine, who has styled countless photos shoots, has these words of wisdom: Don’t underestimate the value of a great cover-up. They even the playing field, no matter what sport you play, what size you wear or how you pass your summer days, he says.
“I was just in Florida and couldn’t believe how many people look chic in a caftan. I hadn’t seen that before, I thought it would be all Mrs. Roper or ‘Golden Girls,’ but everyone looks good in a great cover-up.”