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Deep inside the Devil’s Throat, Iguazu Falls

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Published : Oct. 8, 2010 - 18:14

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FOZ DO IGUACU, Brazil La Garganta del Diablo. That’s Spanish for the throat of the devil. Scary stuff isn’t it?

It’s got an ominous ring that demands your immediate attention.

But the Devil’s Throat is also the name of one of the world’s largest waterfalls.

Quite appropriate, seeing as how the falls swallows water at a jaw dropping rate of nearly 60,000 cubic feet per second.

The monstrosity ends the 2 km stretch of the Iguazu river and is also the biggest single falls within the world’s biggest waterfall reserve the Iguazu Falls.

The word Iguazu derives from the Gaurani Indian word meaning “great water.”

Many have made futile attempts to honor its magnificence through photographs and words accompanied by animated hand gestures but all have failed.

The Iguazu Falls and its Devil’s Throat is just one of those places you have to see for yourself. 

Wider than Victoria and higher than Niagara, it is arguably a more spectacular visual marvel than both.
A bird’s eye view of the Iguazu Falls (Song Woong-ki/The Korea Herald) A bird’s eye view of the Iguazu Falls (Song Woong-ki/The Korea Herald)

Even Eleanor Roosevelt was said to have exclaimed at first sight of the Falls, “Poor Niagara!”

From the thundering sounds of the water to the vibrant rainbows that crown the raging torrent, one look can have the power to hyptnotize.

Sure enough, the local lore suggests that visitors stay no longer than 30 minutes as its seductive power can compel them to dive right into the devil’s throat.

The falls are a testimony to the grandeur of mother nature, which can be the perfect bookend to a memorable journey.

Brazil side

The start of the trek through the falls began on the Brazil side. A total of 275 waterfalls make up the whole of Iguazu Falls.

From the main downtown area of Foz Do Iguacu, it takes about 30 minutes to get to the Iguazu National Park.

Once there, if you never purchase things from street vendors make an exception this time.

Unless you’ve brought your own, when someone comes to you offering a plastic rain coat take it, you’ll need it.

The first to greet you once you get to the start point of the walking trail is the majestic sound of the water falls.

No matter where you are in the trail, you will find mist rising amongst the jungle from all corners of the trail deep inside the park.

The trail is about 2.7 kilometers and towards the end splits into two directions.

Hang a right and visitors are taken to the center base of the main water fall.

There, you will realize coughing up a few dollars for the raincoat was well worth it.
A family looks at the main waterfall from the observation deck on the Brazilian side of the park. (Song Wong-ki/The Korea Herald) A family looks at the main waterfall from the observation deck on the Brazilian side of the park. (Song Wong-ki/The Korea Herald)

While it is true that the majority of the falls are in Argentina 270 of the 275 falls a better panoramic overview can be seen from the Brazilian side.

But one of the most popular activities at the park goes beyond watching and takes visitors out onto the water.

High-speed motor rafting can be enjoyed that takes visitors close to the action.
High-speed motor rafting is a popular option at the Iguazu National Park. (Son Yong-ho) High-speed motor rafting is a popular option at the Iguazu National Park. (Son Yong-ho)

Macuco Safari is the main service that takes visitors up to the base of the falls in 20-person zodiac boats.

The tour begins at the roadside gate where a group of tourists board a bio-diesel powered safari truck that takes them to the drop-off point.

There, the guide leads a hike down to the dock, where the park’s staff swiftly secure life preservers.

Plastic bags for valuables are provided.

The ride up the river toward the falls proceeds at a brisk pace as the rafts are powered by two turbo-charged motors.

This is required in order for the boats to negotiate rapids that flow at a furious pace.

For shutter bugs bothered by the idea of being unable to snap up photos during the ride, worry not because the entire journey is filmed albeit at a price.

During the ride, the captain cheekily startles passengers at every opportunity by dipping the boat causing both ends to see-saw up and down, soaking all passengers from the splash.

Before going under one of the smaller falls, there is an intermission of sorts near the launch point for the Argentinean boat tours during which time is given for the captain to take photos of the passengers.

Unfortunately, the tours cannot sail too close to the larger falls due to rocks in the river.

After the photo-op, the group is taken to the base of one of the smaller falls where sporting raincoats does little to prevent everyone from getting completely drenched.

Argentine side

The next day, it is off to Argentina to see the throat of the devil.

From Foz do Iguacu, it takes about an hour to go through the strict border patrol. Once given the clearance, it only takes about 15-20 minutes to get to the park.
The Devil’s Throat seen from the viewing deck on the Argentine side of the Iguazu Falls National Park. (Choi Kab-soo) The Devil’s Throat seen from the viewing deck on the Argentine side of the Iguazu Falls National Park. (Choi Kab-soo)

To get to the main attraction, visitors have to hop on a cog train, which departs every half an hour.

There are two stations Cataratas and the Devil’s Throat.

The ride to the entrance to the walking path that leads up to the waterfalls is about 15 minutes.

To experience the spectacle of the falls, it is recommended that visitors view Iguazu from both Brazil and Argentina.

While the overall panoramic view from the point of the precipice is a thing of awesome beauty on the Brazil side, in Argentina, a more detailed view is offered.

The Devil’s Throat is quite a multi-sensory marvel of roaring water falls and rainbow halos superimposed over a backdrop of verdant cliffs covered in rich vegetation.

To avoid the inevitable crowds, an early start is recommended.

En route to the main attraction, visitors will have to trek through the serene, idle waters of Iguazu.

The oft-used term “calm before the storm” is appropriate as the walk up to the Devil’s Throat is a peaceful engagement.

The walking trail deceptively takes you through this seemingly tranquil locale but as you get closer, the sound of the water becomes louder and louder, rumbling with heavy bass.

The roar of the thousands of cubic feet of water pumped down the falls vibrates with clouds of mist getting thicker and more visible.

And when you get there, words are not enough to describe what your eyes witness.

Tips on getting there on the cheap



Qatar Airways offers roundtrip fare for 1.77 million won with a stop-over in Doha.

Flights to Sao Paulo are available once everday.

For more information, call (02) 3708-8548

By Song Woong-ki (kws@heraldcorp.com)

(Korea Herald correspondent)