As I was writing this column, my dear Swedish friend called me on Skype. I needed a break, so I picked up. We spent the next half hour talking about everything from food to world affairs. I tried to avoid talking about the subject of this week`s column - I was feeling pretty frazzled! - but when my friend asked, I felt compelled to tell him all about my recipe for tangerine hallabong sorbet. "What is this ... hallabong you speak of?" he inquired tentatively, not wanting to seem out of the know. I explained that hallabong is the Korean name for an incredibly sweet, aromatic, tangerine-like fruit grown on Jeju Island. Using hallabong instead of common tangerines makes for a sweeter, less tart sorbet. My friend is a foodie, and he seemed intrigued and excited about sampling my creation. He even offered to supplement my recipe by picking up some Napoleon mandarin orange liqueur on his way back from Sweden. Nothing makes me happier than a man who offers to provide exciting ingredients to enhance my recipes.
Did you know that Napoleon was obsessed with mandarin oranges? He thought they were exotic, which is somewhat ironic, considering they were native to Napoleon`s birthplace of Corsica. It has been said that Napoleon`s doctor, Antoine-Francois de Fourcroy, developed a liqueur for him using the sweet citrus fruits - which supposedly led to the Napoleon mandarin liqueur of today. If my friend does bring me back the real thing, I will definitely use it to making my tangerine hallabong sorbet. I won`t follow Napoleon`s lead in everything, but in this particular instance, he was right on the money.
Napoleon wasn`t the first human being to value this delicious little fruit. The tangerine was being cultivated in China and Japan as far back as 3,000 years ago. However, it was not introduced to the West until almost 200 years ago. The word "tangerine" is derived from the city of Tangier, Morocco, which was the port that tangerines were first shipped from on their way to Europe in the 1840s.
Nutritionally speaking, you can`t beat the tangerine. It`s high in vitamin C, folate, beta-carotene, magnesium, and potassium, and it`s low in calories, with only 50 per medium-sized tangerine. Its dietary fiber content is also good at about 3 grams per tangerine. Tangerines are smaller than oranges and are a variant of the mandarin orange. They`re easy to peel and are great as a healthy snack.
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The oil extracted from tangerine peels is commonly used for cooking and medicinal purposes; it`s used to help treat all kinds of conditions. In the United States, it`s also used in creams, lotions, and other bath and body products for its aromatherapy benefits. The fragrance of the tangerine oil can help to reduce stress and soothe frayed nerves. Tangerine peel is also useful, especially for glazing and making preserves. Many recipes have been created using dried tangerine peel. It`s used to flavor ice cream, candy, cakes, and cookies. (Gourmet tip: adding tangerine zest to soft butter mixed with minced garlic makes a great spread or sauce for vegetables, seafood, and bread.)
The Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry (2004) reported that a compound found in tangerine and orange peels has the ability to lower cholesterol more effectively than prescription medicine, and without side effects. Canada and the United States joined together in an investigation, which showed that a class of compounds isolated from tangerine peel demonstrated a natural way of lowering LDL cholesterol (the bad kind) in animal studies. The standard cholesterol-lowering prescription drugs have scary side effects including liver disease and muscle weakness - these studies seem to provide some hope that these risks can be avoided by treating high cholesterol with something as simple and benevolent as tangerine peel. This is an extremely exciting idea!
But wait - there`s more. Compounds called polymethoxylated flavones are found in citrus fruits, and studies suggest that they can provide protection against cancer, heart disease, and inflammation. A recent study also shows that PMF can lower cholesterol. The lead scientist, E. Kurowska, explains that PMF has the most potent cholesterol-lowering effect of all the citrus flavonoids.
Hallabong is a citrus fruit that is larger and sweeter than the common orange. Hallabong is half way between an orange and a tangerine, being the size of an orange, but having the sweetness of a tangerine. It is produced in Jeju Island, Korea. You can use the skin as a zest for savory or dessert dishes, because the skin is thick, making it easy to grate. Candied Hallabong peel is easy to make because of the skin thickness - easy and delicious.
Mount Halla is located in Jeju Island. Hallabong is named after this famous mountain, which is 1,981 meters high. It was named so because of the weird shape of the hallabong. The bulge on top of the fruit is suggestive of the shape of Mount Halla, which was once an active volcano. The development of the hallabong is credited to the Japanese circa 1972. The hallabong is a hybrid of two variants of mandarins, the Kiyomi/ChungGyun and the Ponkan. Naju, a city in South Jeolla Province, produces the best hallabong in Korea because of the area`s ample sunshine, fertile soil, and great irrigation system.
Hallabong was studied by Yoo Zoo-won, Kim Nam-sun, and Lee Dong-sun in 2004, as reported in a publication of the Korean Chemical Society. The investigators found the aroma component of hallabong peel has a pleasant, comforting aroma and a sweet taste. The hallabong peel was analyzed for compounds in the oil that may have therapeutic effects. The health benefits are great, with large amounts of vitamin C, folate, and vitamin A. It also contains vitamins B1, B2, and B3, and it is a great source of fiber.
My tangerine hallabong sorbet can be used as a refreshing dessert or as a palate cleanser. When serving a formal dinner, many restaurants serve a cleanser to remove any flavors from the palate that may get in the way of flavors in the main course. A palate cleanser is important to ensure that other flavors do not interfere with fully experiencing the flavor and quality of a wine or food. A perfect palate cleanser requires a balance between the acidity of the fruit and the sweetness of sugar. Sugar is used for a smooth texture; without it, the sorbet will taste like shaved ice with flavoring. Without the acidity, the sorbet will be too sweet.

Tangerine andhallabong sorbet

l 1 1/2 cups tangerine juice (about 6 medium)
l 1 1/2 cups hallabong juice (about 3 large)
l 3/4 cup lemon juice (about 5 lemons)
l 1 1/2 cups sugar syrup (see below for recipe)
l 1/4 cup any orange liqueur (if you cannot find Grand Marnier, use Cointreau or any other orange-flavored liqueur)
In a bowl, stir all ingredients together, strain through a fine-mesh strainer. Freeze in an ice-cream machine.
Makes 1 1/2 quarts or 1.4 liters. Serves about 20 people as a palate cleanser.

Sugar syrup

l 1 1/2 cups (350 ml) water
l 1 cup (200 grams) sugar

Mix water and sugar in saucepan and let boil over medium heat until sugar dissolves and mixture is clear. Let cool before using for tangerine sorbet.
(Samiamounts@yahoo.com)


Samia Mounts is a long-time nutritionist and gourmet aficionado. She is the Assistant Principal at Seoul American Elementary School. - Ed.

By Samia Mounts