Galbijjim: Seollal food from the hearth

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A staple of the Lunar New Year table, "galbijjim," or braised short ribs, is a quintessential example of homey yet regal Seollal fare. The hearty stew of ribs plays sweet and savory flavors off each other and renders meat into tender, velvety chunks of molten glory.

The dish, according to the Institute of Traditional Korean Food president Yoon Sook-ja, dates as far back as the mid-1700s. In an agricultural text from 1766 a method for steaming beef appears. A cook book from the late 1800s documents it as "garijjim."

Yoon attributed the practice of serving galbijjim during Seollal to Korea`s agrarian history.

"Our country is an agricultural nation," Yoon wrote in an e-mail interview. "Cows used to do farm work were considered sacred. During the Goryeo Dynasty, the slaughtering of cows was forbidden to the point that anyone who did so would be punished."

According to Yoon, only the monarch and aristocrats dined on galbijjim during the Joseon Dynasty. The precious nature of the dish led to the tradition of putting it on the Seollal table.

Today, some households place a bowl of galbijjim on the ancestral table for rites. Some households serve it to guests and family and do not include it as part of the ancestral ceremony.

Where to eat



For those who want to tuck into some galbijjim without going through the hassle of making it, the Korea House serves a galbijjim lunch special.

The set (priced at a reasonable 25,000 won) includes another Seollal staple: "tteokguk" (rice cake soup). For this meal, however, the ribs are where it`s at.

Served up in an elegant porcelain dish, the establishment`s take on this classic displays an understated sophistication.

Made from grade 1 and 2 "hanwoo" short ribs, the galbijjim bears a fragrant, spice-laden flavor and was appropriately sweet. The secret to the flavor, according to the Korea House`s cooking team head, lies in the fresh ginseng, pyogo (or shitake) mushrooms, daikon radish, apples, Asian pear, licorice root and cinnamon used it infuse it with an aromatic character.

A smattering of chestnut, gingko biloba nuts, carrot, pyogo mushroom and jujube added a dash of color.

An accompaniment of pumpkin porridge, "japchae" (clear noodles stir-fried with vegetables), rice, tteokguk and a dessert of yuzu tea, rice cakes, hangwa (traditional Korean sweets) and fruit rounded out the meal.

The galbijjim lunch special costs 25,000 won per person. Opening hours are from noon to 2 p.m.; 5:30 p.m. to 7 p.m.; 7:20 p.m. to 8:50 p.m. The Korea House will be open during Seollal. Weekend reservations are required.

For more information visit www.koreahouse.or.kr or call (02) 2266-9101~3. The Korea House is located near Exit 3, Chungmuro Station, Subway Line No. 4.

(oh_jean@heraldm.com)





By Jean Oh