Wetlands, hiking, and hard-boiled eggs

CHANGYNEONG-GUN, South Gyeongsang Province - If you`re an outdoorsy type willing to brave the biting winter cold to do some purposeful traveling, Changnyeong-gun should be a consideration.

From trekking through a Ramsar-protected wetland area that is rich in wildlife to hiking mountains - and then topping it off with a relaxing dip in the wide range of hot springs resorts - the Changnyeong county offers the perfect balance of relaxation and leisure.

For history buffs, the region also offers sites of ancient ruins like the Changnyeong Museum, where Gaya era (42-562 A.D.) relics unearthed from tombs are on display.



Upo Wetland

Upo Wetland is the largest biologically diverse ecosystem in Korea.

Situated near the Nakdong River, the Upo Wetlands lies on 8.54 square kilometers of real estate that is home to 342 endangered species, 168 species of plants, 62 species of birds, 55 species of arthropods, 28 species of fish, 12 species of mammals, seven species of reptiles, five species of amphibians and five species of mollusks.



In 1997, it was acknowledged as an Ecological Conservation Area by the Ministry of Environment.

The following year it was selected as the country`s second wetland protected in accordance with the Ramsar Treaty - an international treaty for the conservation and protection of wetlands around the world.

Upo Wetland is the eighth of its kind to be listed under the treaty`s protection and last year the county was also host to the Ramsar Convention.

The wetland is made of four smaller wetlands - Upo, Mokpo, Sajapo and JJokji-beol - and it derives its name from the largest, Upo.

As the largest natural wetland in the country, it hosts a wide range of aquatic plants from Jumae-ri, Daehap-myeon, Changnyeong and An-ri, Ibang-myeon to Daedae-ri and Sejin-ri, Yueo-myeon.

The most well known rare plant found here is the prickly lotus or Asin Euryale.

The origin of Upo reputedly dates as far back as 140 million years ago. Fossils and fossilized footprints of dinosaurs have been found on sedimentary rocks.

However, geologists have speculated the wetland was created around 4,000 B.C. at the end of an ice age when melting glacier water flowed into the sea, creating the present day boundary between the sea and the inland.

On the day of my hike, light rain had turned an otherwise nice walking path along the marsh into a muddy mess, but that disgruntlement soon subsided at the sight of such rare species of migrant birds like the white-naped crane and Taiga Bean Goose, storks, ducks, and Eurasian spoonbills - all of which flew 3,000 kilometers from Siberia and Northern Manchuria as part of their seasonal migration.

An estimated 6,000 to 8,000 of these migratory birds converge festooning the area.

Throughout its contemporary history, the wetland has also become something of a haven for avid photographers as it offers breathtaking scenery, especially during sunrise when fog floats above the water with wooden dinghies floating about, adding nuance and texture.

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Looking at the fog-laden wetland at the crack of dawn provokes a meditative state of mind for the spiritual traveler. The scene can remind some of East Asian watercolor paintings.

For Song Mi-ryeong, a Gyeongnam nature and culture commentator and poet who guided our group of travel writers, the wetland`s breathtaking beauty inspired him to write a poem titled "Come to Upo Wetland barefooted."

"The walking trail is just covered with dirt and grass so when you step on it, it feels like you`re walking on carpet," he said.

"There`s a reason why a lot of folks tell visitors to come barefooted when they come here."



Historical sites

At first glance, Changnyeong has visual similarities with its neighbor, Gyeongju. It`s like a smaller version, and yet Changnyeong County houses two officially designated national treasures in Silla King Jinheung Cheockgyeongbi at Manokjung Park, and the Seuljeongli Dongsam Pagoda, eight points of relics, and four points of private antiquities. King Jinheung Cheokgyeongbi is a monument built to mark the Silla king`s annexation of Changnyeong.

At the Changnyeong National Museum, visitors can get a glimpse of a life-sized model of a 16-year-old girl from the Gaya period that was excavated in 2007. Archaeologists uncovered the complete remains of the girl believed to be about 1,500 years old.

According to the museum curator, she had a wide, flat face, a long neck and a petite figure, standing at an estimated 153 centimeters tall.

The restoration was the work of two years of interdisciplinary cooperation among experts in archaeology, forensic medicine, anatomy, genetics, and chemistry.

The curator added that archaeologists came to estimate the girl`s age by examining her dental structure.

The girl is also believed to have been a maid, as she apparently spent much time kneeled down and engaged in the repetitious task of cutting with her teeth upon further medical analysis.



Bugok Hot Springs

After braving the biting cold of a blistering Korean winter, a perfect way to wrap up the itinerary is to head on over to the hot springs of Bugok.

Around the Bugok Geomun-ri area of Changnyeong-gun lies a cluster of hot springs.

The mineral-rich sulfuric spring waters of the area boast a temperature of 78 degrees Celsius - the hottest in all of Korea.

One of the novelties of visiting this part of town will be to grub on hard-boiled eggs that were slowly cooked from a spring well set-up by the local municipality.

Upon opening the lid to the well containing satchel full of hard-boiled eggs, you get hit square in the face with the putrid smell of eggs.

Though off-putting, once you`ve taken a bite, you`ll swear it was one of the best tasting hard-boiled eggs you`ve ever had.

Cracking one open is tricky, however, since the whites are still relatively soft due to it being slow-cooked.

The only gripe many of the visiting members of the press had was the cheap, industrial looking design of the well.

Surely they could have placed more effort and used more money to construct a less clinical and more traditional looking well.

Although the number of visitors has significantly decreased over the decade, the county of Changnyeong has actively begun creating tour packages that include hot springs in Bugok to regain its popularity.

A combination of sulfur, silicon, chloride, and calcium are just some of the 20 vital minerals in the spring water that is said to help retain healthy skin.

(kws@heraldm.com)



By Song Woong-ki