[SAVOR KOREA (7)] Korean food could be next big thing

This is the seventh installment of a series that will delve into the current movement towards the globalization of Korean cuisine from a variety of perspectives. The series will explore hansik`s past and present, its global potential, and efforts that are being made to promote it to the world. - Ed

By Jean Oh



Culinary tourism serves as an avenue through which the globalization of Korean cuisine can be promoted. The culinary tourist comes to taste the cuisine, learn how to make it and visit a brewery, tea plantation or farm or two. When they leave they take away their experiences, perhaps even a few recipes, which can be shared with friends and colleagues, and thanks to the Internet, with cyberspace.

Erik Wolf -- the president and CEO of the International Culinary Tourism Association, its educational institute, its development consulting firm and its publishing arm -- understands the universal charm of food and travel.

The association works with destination marketing organizations to promote food and drink. Wolf himself has lived in six countries, speaks several languages and has traveled to almost 60 countries.

When the prominent culinary tourism expert came to Korea for a tour organized by the Seoul Tourism Organization and sponsored by the Seoul Metropolitan Government, The Korea Herald met up with him to discuss the global potential of "hansik."



The Korea Herald conducted two interviews. Wolf was interviewed prior to his tour and a follow-up e-mail interview was conducted after his trip.

"Suffice it to say that Seoul and Korea could be the `next big thing` if positioned properly," the 43-year old CEO wrote about the global potential of "hansik" after his trip.

Though Wolf did not clarify what he meant by "positioned properly," he did point out positive aspects that could contribute to and barriers that may impede the growth of Korea`s culinary tourism industry and the global promotion of hansik.

According to Wolf, language, a relatively low level of awareness of Korean cuisine and fear serve as barriers.

"The language barrier is a very big issue," Wolf wrote. "Not everyone speaks Korean, and certainly, Koreans should not have to learn English. But bilingual or trilingual menus can help."

Fear, a common emotion that arises when a tourist encounters something new and mysterious, serves as another barrier.

"We were somewhere for lunch and they had both Korean food and Western food out and the Korean food had no signs up showing what it was," Wolf illustrated his point. "I didn`t know what was in them... I wanted to try the Korean foods but I was scared and I think it`s that fear that prevents people from trying some authentic foods."

According to Wolf, this fear can be overcome by explaining the dishes; a simple act that can make the experience of eating something new, fun and exciting.

Explanations, it seems, can help increase the level of awareness of Korean food; an awareness, which, according to Wolf, is not yet on par with that of Chinese or Japanese food.

"You go to any small town in America and there`s always a Chinese restaurant... But people don`t know Korean food like they do Chinese or Italian food," he said.

"If people don`t know much about Korean food, if you start to market it, it is not going to do well," Wolf said before stressing the need for a similar level of knowledge of Korean food as Chinese or Japanese.

It seems that Wolf`s discussion of barriers to the growth of Korea`s culinary tourist industry and to the globalization of hansik all converge towards one underlying need: the need to educate and explain.

Scotland and Ontario, destinations that Wolf cites as two of the best in regards to what they have accomplished in the field of culinary tourism, serve as examples of how education can help promote a nation`s cuisine.

"They understand the need to first educate their tourism partners," said Wolf. "They understand the need to develop a quality product that will sell, and then they understand the need to promote it."

Wolf used Scotland as a case in point: "Well let`s first of all talk about how we could provide better service. So let`s create a whisky ambassador program and train servers no matter if they`re in a bar or a restaurant or at a distillery. They can talk authoritatively about Scottish whisky and the history... They`ve invested time, money and effort into promoting cuisine as a product."

Wolf provided an example of how education helped him enjoy a meal during his flight to Korea. According to Wolf, his Korean Air flight showed how an airline can promote Korean food and drink.

"I think Korean Air was doing a really good job promoting Korean food and drink," Wolf said. "Their in-flight magazine had not one, not two, but three articles on food. I was floored... And then when the flight attendant came and I ordered the bibimbap, there was a guide on how to prepare it, a little laminated flier that shows you how to put the chili paste in, how to mix in the rice and how to add the sesame oil, and I thought, `How great is that?`"

The only recommendation Wolf had was in regards to the drinks. He suggested plum wine as an option.

"Maybe in business class, they offer plum wine," he considered the possibility that it was already provided.

According to a Korean Air PR representative, traditional Korean beverages are provided on certain routes for certain classes, with plum wine available on the Japan routes.

When asked about Korean dishes, beverages and restaurants that could be attractive to tourists, Wolf applauded "recent efforts to include culinary pedigree on menus (e.g. where beef comes from)." He also thought that "the fact that authenticity is still a very important part of Korean cuisine" would appeal to culinary tourists.

Wolf enjoyed the food he had during his five-day trip through Gwangju and Seoul including a duck restaurant in Gwangju, Samwon Garden and a "royal feast at the Korea House."

Wolf also liked the "nouvelle Korean cuisine" that he tried during his stay here.

In terms of dishes, Wolf wrote: "I think international travelers would enjoy the royal feast, as well as a traditional galbi meal, but there are so many choices it is hard to say just one to two things. Travelers would also enjoy the plum wine, soju and makgeolli."

When asked about what he hopes to take away from this experience, Wolf answered: "I`m hoping to learn more about the Korean culture through its food, and that includes history and all the stories that go with that."



(oh_jean@heraldm.com)