[Samia`s food facts and recipes] Bellflower root and autumn fruit

My recent visit to Seoraksan, the highest mountain in Gangwon Province, was a revelation for me. The beauty and grace of the majestic mountains took my breath away. But what was even more amazing to me was the bellflower root, called doraji. The roots look a lot like ginseng in shape, and they have a similar earthiness about them. They are considered the symbols of the male sex. The cost of doraji is far less than ginseng, but they carry just as much nutritional value. I bought about 400 grams of the root from a farmer, thinking I would come up with an interesting recipe to showcase it. As usual, I called on my Korean friends, who are starting to get sick of me because they do not know any more than I do about the nutritive value of different foods and recipes that feature them. They do know they like to eat doraji, however. They also know it is very bitter, which explains why most recipes that use it load it down with red pepper flakes.



I could not accept the idea that the root`s bitterness could not be removed without the strong flavor of the pepper flakes to mask it. I decided to conduct an experiment to find a solution to the issue with the root`s bitterness. I cleaned the roots, sliced them, and crushed two fresh tangerines on them. Then, I rubbed one tablespoon of salt into the roots and boiled them for five minutes. The tangerines and salt tenderized the roots and removed the bitter flavor. I removed the roots from the water, sauteed them in olive oil, and added two cups of sliced persimmons, salt and pepper. Finally, I garnished the dish with green onions. I tasted it, and voila! There was no bitterness whatsoever.



It was taste-testing time, and as with any taste-testing session, I was fearful of negative reviews. My Korean friends had strong opinions, which did not surprise me. One woman insisted that her grandmother`s method of roasting the root would have been better; another said she liked the bitterness, that it brought back childhood memories; a third objected to the use of fruit in the recipe. I explained that I wasn`t experimenting to please the Korean palate, and that it`s the foreign palate that needs time to acquire the taste for foods of other lands. In other words, I was going for a solid Korean fusion dish - and once that was understood, the opinions became more positive. Eventually, even the most stalwart traditionalists of the group agreed that this was a great way to introduce these nutritious roots to foreigners. It`s still Korean food, but with a variation on the original recipe, just like the grandmother who roasted the doraji root.

Doraji, also known as balloon flower or bellflower root, belongs to the class Magnoliopsida and is a species of perennial flowering plant. According to http://www.jinsanfoods.co.kr/eng/type.htm, bellflower roots` fragrance and taste are unique and unmatched by any other root. The website claims that bellflower roots are rich in vitamins and minerals and often used as herbs in alternative medicine. The root also contains platycodon and saponin, which are used to cure ulcers and coughs, as well as to relieve pain and reduce inflammation.

Historically, Korea is grounded in Chinese medical beliefs about the yin-yang balance of the body and soul. The idea of food having warming and cooling properties on the body is part of the Korean culture. I do think there is much truth to this philosophy, but I still would like to see more experimentation and research on this important topic. Food is what life is about. We cannot live without food, yet the research conducted is not complete in regards to the effects of certain chemicals in food on the human body. Instead, most research is focused on the industry selling their product. This kind of bias does not serve the health needs of human beings.

An interesting book, "The Food of Korea," by David Clive Price and Masanot Kawana, discusses the most common medicinal uses of tangerines and persimmons, two excellent ingredients featured in this column`s recipe. Price, et al., also stated that bellflower roots are used to treat coughs and colds. According to the website http://www.vitagreen.com/en/ingredients/list/c/, the traditional use of bellflower root is to promote healthy lung function, to remove phlegm from the lungs, and to treat diarrhea. The only question I have about these claims is whether or not there is evidence from human studies that bellflower root does indeed carry these health benefits. Koreans use doraji for coughs, as an expectorant, and to treat diabetes and hypertension. Traditionalists also claim the root has an anti-gastric effect and anti-cancer properties, as well as the ability to inhibit congestive edema, and act as a diuretic, anti-allergen, and possibly an aphrodisiac. This is all just folklore and holistic medicine, but there may be some truth to it. A study by Chang Kyung-ja and Cheong Sun-hee from the Department of Food & Nutrition at the University of Ehwa (The FASEB Journal. 2007; 21:843.4) showed that fermented milk supplemented with bellflower roots might be effective in suppressing bone loss because of ovariectomy. Combining this powerful root with tangerines and persimmons in one recipe makes for an incredibly healthy dish.

The nutritive value of bellflower is not clear based on scientific research. One site states that 21 grams of dried bellfower root is about 81 calories.



Bellflower root with tangerines and persimmons



l 400 grams fresh doraji (bellflower root), cleaned and peeled, sliced lengthwise into thin strips

l 2 small tangerines (about 100 grams each)

l 1 tablespoon salt (to rub roots)

l 2 tablespoons olive oil

l 2 persimmons (about 2 cups sliced)

l 1/2 teaspoon salt

l 1/2 teaspoon black pepper

l 1 dry red chili pepper

l 2 tablespoons green onions or chives, chopped, for garnish

Rub sliced roots with tangerines, and then rub with 1 tablespoon salt. Place in pot of boiling water (1.2 liters water). Boil for about four minutes. Drain and place in cold water to stop cooking.

Place olive oil in skillet on medium heat. Place roots in skillet and saute for about two minutes. Add persimmons, salt, pepper, and chili, continue sauteing for another minute. Serve with chopped green onion or chives as side dish. Serves four.

Note: I used fresh bellflower root. If you are using dried bellflower root, soak in water for about an hour.

(Samiamounts@yahoo.com)





Dr. Samia Mounts is a long-time nutritionist and gourmet aficionado. She is the Assistant Principal at Seoul American Elementary School. - Ed.



By Samia Mounts