Seoul`s best beer

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Following is a the first in a two part series on where to find the best beer in Seoul. Part I looks at places south of the Han River, while Part II will consider north of the Han. - Ed.



Knocking Korea`s mass-produced beers is a prime conversation topic for many expats, who liken the lagers` names to the unfortunate English words they closely resemble.

"Good beer" and "Korea" are words seldom used in the same sentence. But like every country that has omnipresent factory-made beers low in both price and flavor, Korea also has a small but dedicated army of craft brewers fighting to prove that good Korean beer is possible.

Brewpubs are popping up across the country, but with the highest concentration in Seoul, I set out on part one of my Korean beer odyssey. The challenge: to find the perfect pint south of the river.





6. O`Kim`s Brauhaus



Seoul`s oldest microbrewery is also one of few catering to the lunchtime drinker, though its food court-style eatery invariably pushes me toward a liquid lunch. Luckily, the beer alone is worth the trip. Served in a variety of ceramic tankards, cool but impossible to drink hourglass-shaped vases and meter-high dispensers to share with the table, you can choose from a trio of German-style beers. Gimmicks aside, their brews are light enough for lunchtime drinking, but more flavorful than anything you`re used to in Korea. Sampling the excellent wheat beer is a must, but don`t get too hooked - while O`Kim`s is one of the only breweries taking advantage of new take-out laws, so far only the lager-like Helles is available for home-supping.



When: Every day 11.30 a.m.-midnight

Where: The East Wing of the Coex Convention Center

How much: 400 ml = 5,500 won





5. Herzen



Dim lighting, chic decor and live jazz make Herzen the most romantic spot for a decent pint. As with most Seoul brewpubs, Herzen serves three German beers, all dangerously easy to drink. The helles, a pale lager with a full-bodied, malty flavour stands above its peers. The 4,000 won sampler is adorable - by which I mean that the glasses are tiny. Price-wise just delving in to one of their pints is a better option. Continuing the German theme, Herzen are rightly proud of their range of homemade sausages and while the full platter is pricey, it can easily feed a small party of revellers with the beer munchies.



When: Every day 11.30 a.m.-2 a.m.

Where: Gangnam Exit 6, next to Burger King

How much: 450 ml = 5,000 won





4. Big Rock



For Canadians with a touch of the homesick blues or beer fans looking for something other than standard German flavors, Big Rock is the answer. Their range is pretty awesome, including an IPA, a couple of ales and lagers ranging from a super-light "why bother drinking?" offering, to their scrumptious honey brown. Beers are actually brewed in Canada, something that`s reflected in the flavors - British patrons might be a little disappointed that the ales are light, ice cold and pretty fizzy. But Brits who favor the United Kingdom`s "other pint" will be thrilled to find a bar with excellent draft cider. One of the only places in Seoul you can order a cider and not be handed a glass of Sprite!



When: Every day 5 p.m.-2 a.m.

Where: Gangnam, Exit 7

How much: 500 ml = 6,500 won





3. Castle Praha



The outright winner in the coziest decor category, Castle Praha broadcasts its Czech-inspired theme both inside and out. As you`d expect from a bar dedicated to all things Czech, their pilsner is pretty good, but the darker and slightly sweet granat (an amber lager with a hint of honey) is their most popular pint. Meals here aren`t cheap but enormous enough for two to share, making it a great place to soak up some of the booze. For maximum protection against hangovers, order the divine beef goulash poured into half a hollowed-out loaf of bread. It`d take a lot of lager to get through that barrier.



When: Mon-Sat 11.30 a.m.-2 a.m.; Sun 3 p.m.-midnight

Where: Gangnam, Exit 6

How much: 500 ml = 5,500 won





2. Platinum



Platinum is the place to go if you`re in search of something a little different. Their duo of wheat beers pale into comparison to those dished up at O`Kim`s or Oktoberfest, but the Platinum Ale and Cream Stout more than make up for the shortcomings of the Belgian White. When fully stocked you can also sample the pilsner, brown ale and a knock-you-off-your-feet dark beer worryingly titled Morphine. To really get your won`s worth, try to arrive in the early evening - from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. every day you can taste everything but the Morphine in their all-you-can-drink beer buffet (16,000 won).



When: Mon-Sat 4 p.m.-3 a.m.; Sun 4 p.m.-1 a.m.

Where: Apgujeong Exit 3, then jump in a taxi

How much: 360 ml = 5,000 won





1. Oktoberfest



The grievously overlooked jewel in Gangnam`s crown of brewpubs has been producing the city`s finest pilsner since 2002. Seoul`s first qualified brewmaster perfected the art in Germany and has since been simultaneously serving up Seoul`s most palatable pint while training wannabe brewers to further spread the love. And if there`s anything better than an icy beer with a head that sticks around while you sip, it`s the basket of freshly baked breadsticks that comes with your first round. The bar paid 20 million won for the recipe and you`ll no doubt agree that it was worth every cent. Now if I could just work out what that weirdly moreish sauce is that comes with the bread ...



When: Every day 4 p.m.-1 a.m.

Where: Gangnam, Exit 6

How much: 500 ml = 5,000 won

To contact Ms. Corne, visit her website at www.lucycorne.com -- Ed.





By Lucy Corne