Seoul`s back streets

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This is the 50th in a series of articles highlighting tourism spots in Seoul. The guide for planning weekend trips in the capital city will help readers rediscover Seoul. - Ed.



By Jung Bo-sang



Though cosmopolitan and crowded, Seoul has some places where you can take a quiet walk. They are Buamdong street behind the Blue House, Namsan street and Jeongdong street, which runs from the entrance of Deoksugung (Palace) to Kyunghyang Daily News. These are good to walk along anytime, but best during the fall.



Buam-dong



Seoul is a bustling metropolis of more than 10 million people, but only 10 minutes by car from the city center, Buam-dong seems to exist in a different time altogether. The quiet and exotic atmosphere seems to turn back time. A haberdashery, a mill and a hardware store are clustered together, creating a small town feel. Closer inspection reveals the area`s modern touches. Between the old-fashioned stores you can find cupcake shops, while cute cafes stand next to refined restaurants.

The Buam-dong Community Service Center is a good place to begin walking. Going up the shallow hill leads to rather old, low-lying houses along the Inwangsan slope to the right and small, long-standing shops to the left. You can overlook the Buam-dong area from the ridge of the hill. Affordable housing built in the 1960s, luxury residences built in the 1970s and traditional houses from the Joseon Dynasty mingle, making an interesting architectural collage.

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Changuimun is the starting point of Bugak skyway. It is also the only gate that has preserved its original look among the four small gates within Seoul`s city walls. The name means, "Door that exposes the right thing," and is also called "Jahamun," after nearby Jaha-dong. Here you can enjoy views of the gate, the city walls and the mountains they snake along. To walk along the northern stretch of the walls, you need get your ID checked before entering. Adults over 18 years old are permitted only if they have photo ID, such as a resident`s card or a driver`s license.

Returning from Changuimun, there are several paths. The first landmark you will see is Whan Ki Museum. It plays the role of an old steward in Buam-dong since it was established in 1992 by Kim Hyang-an, wife of the great abstract artist Kim Whan-ki, after he passed away in 1991. It displays masterpieces by Kim Whan-ki year-round and hosts various project exhibitions. Unfortunately, it will be closed until Nov. 16 on account of construction.

Back on the main road is an old mill that sells rice cakes from the small side door that are made the same morning.

Following Buam-dong Street you can look at the beautiful changing leaves that color Bugaksan mountain. Traveling further, you are greeted by jazzy sounds and the deep aroma of coffee coming from a nearby cafe. The road continues to "Sanmotungi" a cafe made famous by the popular TV drama "Coffee Prince Number One."

Leaving the cafe you travel uphill through the clear air to Baeksasil Valley. If you are lucky you can see rare salamanders here, and it is a great place for fall foliage. Streams from the valley run between the heavy woods leading us to a big rock on which "Baekseokdongcheon" is written. "Baekseok" refers to Bugaksan and "dongcheon" means excellent scenery. Lee Hang-bok, a prime minister from the Joseon dynasty, built a pavilion and lived here. You still can see the cornerstone of the building and some stones from his pond.

The sound of Seoul is by now far out of range. Occasionally cooing collared doves and bugs make sounds, while the wind rustles through the woods. Stepping with a thankful mind through a place like this not far from the heart of Seoul, the sound of fallen leaves under your feet gives you a more tender feeling.



Jeongdong-gil

Designated as "a path not supposed to be swept of fallen leaves" by Lee O-young when he was minister of culture, this place is like a small forest. Stone walls and benches on which you can rest occasionally make an even more wonderful environment. People have often come here for a stroll since they added bends to the road to mimic the waterway of Poseokjung in Gyeongju and reduce car speed.

This area is also part of the northern Seoul cultural belt. It has a city museum, Jeongdong theater and a movie theater.

Next to Baejae Park is Chungdong Church, the oldest church in Korea, with a history of more than 100 years. In October 1887, a missionary started this church by holding a worship service at his house in Jeong-dong. It also influenced the history of architecture in our country. The current church is a red brick building with a stone stylobate and a three-storied bell tower. Its construction began in December 1895 and finished the following September. The church is popular for weddings, particularly as the steps of the bell tower are an unusual sight in Korea.



Near Chungdong Church is Chongdong Theater. It was built to replace Wongaksa, the first modern theater in Korea in 1995. The stage system is equipped for all kinds of performances.

Continue toward the direction of Sinmun-ro, you will reach Nanta Theater. The road from Chungdong Church to Cinema Jungdong has Gingko trees of, whose leaves turn yellow in late October and fall in billowing clouds like snow, with piling up in drifts on the sidewalk.



Namsan

Standing in the center of Seoul, Namsan`s proximity is sometimes its undoing. Being so close by and so familiar, it is sometimes undervalued. Nevertheless, it has wonderful places to relax and spectacular sights. Walking up the slopes you can look down upon Seoul actively moving under your feet, and you can even see the city`s satellite towns from Namsan tower.

The woods of Namsan are dressed with unique colors every season. The most common way to visit is to start from Namsan Botanical Garden on the west side and use the stairs.

As the highlight, Seoul tower puts the whole world under your feet. After dark, you can enjoy the night view of Seoul.

Speaking of the night view, there is a secret to enjoying the beauty of Namsan 100 times more. At dusk, you can experience the magnificent spectacle of the sun going down behind Yeouido and Mapo from Namsan Library.